Just to prove that I have actually accomplished something since last blogging about this project! In fact, I’ve gotten more done than I thought, because the skirt is just about finished.
Have you ever just seen a costume – in a picture, a movie, or read in a book – and knew at that first look that you were someday going to have that costume? Of course, there are tons of fabulous movie and TV show costumes that I would love to be able to make, but I definitely don’t have the time or resources to ever get to everything on my dream costume list. But this costume would not let itself not be made.
The next step on my path to mid-1860’s costuming is a big ol’ fluffy petticoat. I had an exact picture in my mind of what I wanted to create – a full, gathered petticoat with three tiers of ruffles – and this project turned out just about perfectly in my opinion.
I mentioned in my last post that I’ll be going to Anime Central in May. I haven’t been to an anime convention in at least ten years, but it’s a wonderful chance to dress up and show off my costumes, so I’m going this year! I started working on my costume this week, and I’ve made pretty good progress, if I do say so myself!
I’m going with my little sister, and she was the one who picked our characters.
I’ll be going as the girl version of Ciel from Black Butler. which means I get to build a big, frilly ball gown!
I planned things out, and decided what changes I wanted to make to the original idea. the story is set in the Victorian era, in the late 1880s, so I wanted to make my costume more reflective of that period of fashion than it is in the anime. even the best-made versions of this gown I’ve seen still look… well, costumey, so I aimed to make mine look more like a real outfit from that time, a formal gown that a woman might have worn at that time. also, I wanted to change the color scheme from pink and white to pink and ivory, just out of personal preference.
I went fabric shopping this weekend… and really was disappointed, even more so than I usually am by my local fabric store. they didn’t have much in the colors I was looking for. as for fabric, I was determined to avoid satin – again out of personal preference; I don’t like shiny fabrics – and in the end I went with cotton calico, because they had both the colors and yardage I needed. it’s not as fancy as I’d have liked, but then again, this is a costume – something I’m going to be traipsing around in for hours, something that’s going to get dirty and probably stepped on.
I started working on the bodice on Sunday.
this was my first draft, which ended up fitting the best. I pinned it on my dress form with canvas, and then cut a mock-up out of a lighter weight cotton. the only alteration it needed was to cut the armhole a little smaller, so I was good to go!
the inner layer of the bodice is two layers of a heavier cotton calico that I had laying around. I put two bones at every seam and along the darts. I used cable ties for a few reasons: I had some available, for one, and I didn’t want this thing to be as heavy as a corset. the inner lining is heavy enough to keep the bodice up on its own, but the bones give it that little extra support. the shape was important to me, because a gown like this would have been worn over a corset in period, but I didn’t want to actually have to wear a corset under my costume, for reasons of comfort.
here’s the bodice with the outer layer attached. I made a mistake, and cut the fashion fabric using my first un-altered pattern, and so the arm holes were a little too deep. I didn’t realize until I had the thing put together. I left it that way because I didn’t feel like taking it apart, and because it doesn’t make a difference in how the bodice fits.
the pleated trim was just a tube of the ivory fabric turned inside out and pleated to fit. I somehow miscalculated and ended up with twice the length I needed for the top of the bodice… but no worries, because I need a mile of pleats for the underskirt, so I’m a bit ahead of the game there.
the bodice is finished! it looks bad on my dress form, but it fits me to a tee. it laces up the back with grommets. I debated a back-lacing bodice versus one that closed in the front, and went with back-lacing for two reasons: the gown in the anime does have a corset-ish black ribbon decoration up the back, and I thought it would look better than a front-closing gown with all that stuff right smack in the front. plus, I have seen a fashion plate with a back-lacing bodice on a ball gown, so I can call it period accurate 😀
I bought a grommet setter, and this project was the first time I used it. I’ve always used an awl and a hammer to set grommets in the past, but after slicing my hand open for the third time with my awl, I got frustrated, and decided to give the tool a try. I’m pleased with the way it works, after I got the hang of it! (my first few grommets came out pretty ugly, though!) I still don’t like the idea of punching holes in fabric – I think the awl is better – but it sure is quicker.
the black trim is grosgrain ribbon. the rose comes from a bouquet I deconstructed. the bow is the same ivory cotton which I painted with black fabric paint to get the stripes just right. I never thought of using fabric paint in this way before, but I’m pleased with the end result.
next week, I’ll tackle the skirts. I already have the ivory underskirt pattern made, and the skirt is finished except for needing hemming. then I have to figure out how to drape the pink overskirt, and of course I have to trim the both of them with a gajillion pleats. the pleating and the trim is going to be the worst part of the whole outfit, so if I can get it done on my next off week, I’ll be golden!
just a quick and dirty post with some quick and dirty pictures of the pelisse I made a few weeks ago. it’s inspired by the styles of capes in the mid to late 18th century, but isn’t wholly period. I was experimenting with styles and techniques.
it’s made of almost entirely thrifted materials, and was therefore wonderfully cheap. the faux fur came from a huge fur coat I picked up at a thrift store (I really mean huge; I’ve still got enough fur left for a whole other cape after this one!) and the red velvet I snagged at an estate sale a while back. it’s not really as vibrant as it appears in the photos. the cape is inner-lined in flannel from my stash, and lined with maroon cotton, which was the only thing I bought for this project.
I’m not sure I’m happy with the way the hood looks; at the time I was working on it, I was feeling too lazy to mess around with pleats and get that characteristic look of 18th century hoods. the hood is entirely lined with fur, for warmth, but it’s pretty full and pointy looking. something I may redo at some future point.
I’m just waiting for the weather to warm up a little – at least to bearable temperatures – to get some decent photos of my pretty new winter things out in the snow. but I also have another project that I’m working on this week, of which I may have some pictures soon.