Three Musketeers – Milady

here’s what I worked on today. this is one of Milady’s outfits. it’s made of mole skin, which I was cursing every second of the process. the color in the pictures isn’t quite true; the bodice is a dark burgundy and the skirt is more mauve-colored. (I know my pictures are sucking more and more – I keep forgetting to bring my camera with me! I only had my iPad and, despite what the ad might claim, it is not a match for my Nikon.)

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pleating the skirt. mole does not pleat well. or iron well. or really do anything that I want it to do well. I pleated this thing for like an hour before I was really satisfied with the look.

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my mum’s cat was extremely helpful by way of getting hair all over my fabric and chewing holes in my arms when I tried to remove her from the area.

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the nearly-finished bodice, front and back. I used the same pattern as before, slightly modified. I pulled the strap down to sit on the shoulder and made the bodice back-lacing and front-closing with hooks and eyes (not yet sewn on.) the top and bottom edge of the bodice is bound with bias-cut strips of the same fabric – quelle nightmare! when I say that stuff does not want to hold a crease, I’m not kidding. I love the look and feel of mole but when I was at the fabric store loading bolts into my cart, I conveniently forgot that I hate to sew with it. the bias-binding alone took me at least an hour.

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an almost decent picture of the finished product. the sleeves are open to the shoulder and will tie shut over a big poofy white sleeve. all that’s left to do is hem the skirt, which I want to do after fitting the actress, and the hooks and eyes, which I only didn’t do today because I ran out.

the style of this gown is kind of a mish-mash of several styles of the period, which I don’t like. but the director had some specific requirements for this costume, so I winged it. that should be my slogan, shouldn’t it? “wingin’ it: adventures in historical costuming!” hm, I might use that.

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sneak peak of my other in-progress project for this show! made from curtains! what do you think it’s going to be? 😀

Three Musketeers : bodices

finally! progress!! just some quick shots of what I’ve been working on for The Three Musketeers. I spent all day today on these.

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the pattern I drafted myself, based on the 1562 velvet bodies in Janet Arnold’s Patterns of Fashion 3. (my mum gave me the whole series for my birthday last week – score!) the play is set 1625, but the look of this bodice is basic enough to work.

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this is the “Sabine” bodice. the piece on the left in the first picture is with my original boning pattern – which was quickly evident that it wasn’t going to be enough, although the actress is a tiny thing, so I added a bit more boning to the center. the second picture is the inside of the bodice with full boning.

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grommeting. ugh!!

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the (almost) finished bodice. it closes at the front with hooks and eyes, and laces up the back sides for easy size adjustment. this bodice has to be quickly taken off on-stage, so lacing it shut wasn’t an option. besides, hooks and eyes are perfectly period!

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this is the “Constance” bodice, front and back. same pattern, but with a closed front. I based the trim design off some fashion plates from the era. again with grommets – yurrrrgh. I hate grommets, hate how they look, and it bugs me that they’re NOT PERIOD. but this is theater. and I don’t have the time for hand-sewing forty costumes. so I figure that if grommets are the worst thing up on the stage when I’m done, I’ll have done pretty well. still…

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here is a sleeve, which is lined with the blue from the “Sabine” bodice because that’s what I had around at the time. and the second picture is just a tube of stuffed fabric which will be attached to the shoulder with some black trim. because I am a dunce, I sewed my front sleeve bands to the inside of the bodice. so I thought… how do I attach sleeves without a sleeve band, and also make this thing still wearable? and that’s where I stopped taking pictures, so you’ll have to find out in the next post. which may be… tomorrow! I’m planning on finishing these two pieces, and hopefully drafting two ballgown bodices as well.